Baldy Bowl

Yesterday, I went on a backcountry ski trip in the powder, high above Breckinridge. It was a beautiful day.

Telemark School

I finished a two day telemark skiing school high in the backcountry on a beautiful day with good snow for skiing. Our instructor, Marilyn Choske, was very good

Nepal and the Khumba Region

The Sherpa people moved to the Khumba region of Nepal from eastern Tibet a number of centuries ago. Traditionally, they practiced farming and herding. The Sherpas belong to the Nyingmapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Their lives changed significantly when Nepal was opened to westerners in 1950, and since then tourism has become a major source of income for them. Traditionally, Sherpas did not climb mountains which previously would have been considered a blasphemous act, since many peaks were considered to be sacred or homes of the primordial mountain gods. We were told that Sherpas are not really interested in mountain climbing but do it to make a living. The trekking and climbing tourism has significantly impacted the culture. It has brought a strong western influence, and we were told that it is changing the young people, many of whom are leaving for Kathmandu. At the same time, it is hard to deny the positive economic benefit of tourism. The Sherpa people are still very religious and maintain their spiritual traditions. We were told that many of the Sherpa people will be traveling to India for an event that the Dalai Lama is presiding over early in the New Year. Physically, it is amazing what many Sherpa people can do, and we saw many carrying extraordinarily heavy loads up hill at high altitudes. To us, they seemed to be very friendly and ethical.

The Nepali name for Mount Everest is Sagarmatha. The Sagarmatha National Park was created in 1976 and was named a World Heritage Site in 1979. Strong efforts have are being made to improve conservation management in the National Park, and various regulations have been adopted which are enforced with military assistance. At the same time, the program tries to respect and protect the cultural heritage of the Khumba region, and the Park involves locals in decision-making and management. Historically, deforestation, over-grazing, soil erosion and wildlife poaching have been problems. Tourism has accelerated these problems. The Wild Yak, Snow Leopard, Red Panda, Musk Deer and Black Bear are listed as endangered in the area. There is a reforestation program in the park and there are obvious permitting and enforcement programs to control the removal of wood. There are anti-poaching programs and reports that certain populations of the large mammals are starting to recover.

Much of South Asia depends on the water that comes from the snow and glaciers in the Himalayas. Since the 1970’s, studies show that the average temperature increase in the Himalayas has been almost twice the average that has occurred for the rest of the world. To the Sherpas, climate change is obvious as they watch the glaciers steadily shrink. We American trekkers knew that we held a great deal of the responsibility for what is occurring. The Sherpas, however, were too gracious to accuse us of being involved, but we are involved and the results of climate change will obviously be catastrophic. New glacial lakes have formed and the potential is high for “outburst” floods triggered by melting ice which could be disastrous for the people in the region. Additional impacts could occur that would significantly change the ecology of the region. Most significantly the changing climate will reduce the availability of water for billions of people. Hopefully, we all returned home with a heightened appreciation of the need for action in the developed world.

It was wonderful spending time in the most awe-inspiring landscapes in the world and among a very unique people with a strongly spiritual culture. At the same, it reminded us who we are and our importance in terms of what is happening throughout the world.

Bhaktapur

On our return, they had left us an extra day in Kathmandu in case the flight from Lukla had been delayed. We mostly spent the time shopping and eating a great deal. Some of us toured the medieval city of Bhaktapur outside of Kathmandu. It has its own central Durbar Square area. We were approached by several men wanting to be our guide, and we hired the lowest bidder. Again, the sites were mostly Hindu in nature. We could not enter the temples and there were guards to make sure that non-Hindus did not go in. We walked beyond the square into the old narrow streets of the residential and commercial areas. We walked by the pottery square where there workshops producing clay pots. Because of the different historic and religious sites in the Kathmandu Valley, it is a World Heritage site.

Finishing the Trek

December turned out to be a good time to trek in the Khumba region. The trails and villages were not crowded with Trekkers and the weather was very clear. We had no precipitation whatsoever. We mostly spent our breakfasts, lunches, tea times and dinners in tea rooms, which became our place to refresh ourselves, play cards, write in our journals, read, and socialize. Gio, a physical therapist from Sitka, Alaska was the star of our group who lead various activities in the tea rooms and danced for everyone. We had a very good group of trekkers. Everyone maintained good, positive spirits, and all were eager to help each other. From Namche we hiked back down steeply to the Dudh Koshi River and to Phakding to spend another night. Sitting in the tea room in Phakding, we watched Thupten outside conducting an intense discussion with a group of monks over a piece of religious art rolled out on a picnic table. He told us that he was advising them on the symbolic accuracy of the painting. He was obviously known to be an expert on that subject.

On our second night in Namche on the initial ascent, a stray dog, of the kind that tends to follow Trekkers, slept outside our tent. On our final night in Phakding, a stray snuck under the tent flap and slept in the tent vestibule. From Phakding, we had to climb almost 2,000 feet back to Lukla. It was a beautiful day, and I enjoyed pushing myself to make the climb as fast as I could. I was not nearly the fastest in the group, but I enjoyed the climb. After lunch in Lukla, the group went into the village and enjoyed espresso drinks or Everest beer. During the trek, we were warned about dairy products and alcohol was discouraged at altitude, but now, finished with hiking, we felt free to indulge ourselves. There was a big celebration in the evening with a special dinner. The Nepali crew played a drum and sang Sherpa songs and had us all dancing Sherpa style. Gio led the crew in dancing to more contemporary Bollywood and western music. We all appreciated the special care that the Nepali crew had provided. We spent the night in the nice lodge and in the morning got on the plane to fly back to Kathmandu. The plane took off downhill on the slanted runway, and we watched the snowy peaks recede as we flew over the foothills to the city.

Tengboche

The next day, on a very cold morning, we climbed steeply to Tengboche. Tengboche is an active monastery where Thupten served. It is on a high forested ridge. The entryway gate and building are covered with intricate pictures of Bodhisattvas and other divine beings. The art in the meditation room included intricate panels describing various stories. There were prayer drums and banners and meditation benches where the monks chanted the sutras. The benches were covered with special cushions, covers and blankets. This day, we were told, the monks were away participating in an event commemorating the death of a lama. After a donation, we lit the yak butter candles, made wishes and Thupten said a prayer. Outside there was an outstanding view of Everest and its sister peaks.

We next climbed down to the Dudh Kosi River and then climbed steeply out of its canyon to lunch at Kenjoma. By then, clouds began to come up the valley and a warm morning turned cold. After lunch, we ascended into the clouds and the scenery disappeared behind a gray wall. As we entered the outskirts of Namche, we saw a florescent male pheasant.