Bob's Travels

Baldy Bowl

2012-02-12T11:16:00.000-08:00

Yesterday, I went on a backcountry ski trip in the powder, high above Breckinridge. It was a beautiful day.

Telemark School

2012-02-05T19:18:00.000-08:00

I finished a two day telemark skiing school high in the backcountry on a beautiful day with good snow for skiing. Our instructor, Marilyn Choske, was very good

Nepal and the Khumba Region

2012-01-01T16:39:00.000-08:00

The Sherpa people moved to the Khumba region of Nepal from eastern Tibet a number of centuries ago. Traditionally, they practiced farming and herding. The Sherpas belong to the Nyingmapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Their lives changed significantly when Nepal was opened to westerners in 1950, and since then tourism has become a major source of income for them. Traditionally, Sherpas did not climb mountains which previously would have been considered a blasphemous act, since many peaks were considered to be sacred or homes of the primordial mountain gods. We were told that Sherpas are not really interested in mountain climbing but do it to make a living. The trekking and climbing tourism has significantly impacted the culture. It has brought a strong western influence, and we were told that it is changing the young people, many of whom are leaving for Kathmandu. At the same time, it is hard to deny the positive economic benefit of tourism. The Sherpa people are still very religious and maintain their spiritual traditions. We were told that many of the Sherpa people will be traveling to India for an event that the Dalai Lama is presiding over early in the New Year. Physically, it is amazing what many Sherpa people can do, and we saw many carrying extraordinarily heavy loads up hill at high altitudes. To us, they seemed to be very friendly and ethical.

The Nepali name for Mount Everest is Sagarmatha. The Sagarmatha National Park was created in 1976 and was named a World Heritage Site in 1979. Strong efforts have are being made to improve conservation management in the National Park, and various regulations have been adopted which are enforced with military assistance. At the same time, the program tries to respect and protect the cultural heritage of the Khumba region, and the Park involves locals in decision-making and management. Historically, deforestation, over-grazing, soil erosion and wildlife poaching have been problems. Tourism has accelerated these problems. The Wild Yak, Snow Leopard, Red Panda, Musk Deer and Black Bear are listed as endangered in the area. There is a reforestation program in the park and there are obvious permitting and enforcement programs to control the removal of wood. There are anti-poaching programs and reports that certain populations of the large mammals are starting to recover.

Much of South Asia depends on the water that comes from the snow and glaciers in the Himalayas. Since the 1970’s, studies show that the average temperature increase in the Himalayas has been almost twice the average that has occurred for the rest of the world. To the Sherpas, climate change is obvious as they watch the glaciers steadily shrink. We American trekkers knew that we held a great deal of the responsibility for what is occurring. The Sherpas, however, were too gracious to accuse us of being involved, but we are involved and the results of climate change will obviously be catastrophic. New glacial lakes have formed and the potential is high for “outburst” floods triggered by melting ice which could be disastrous for the people in the region. Additional impacts could occur that would significantly change the ecology of the region. Most significantly the changing climate will reduce the availability of water for billions of people. Hopefully, we all returned home with a heightened appreciation of the need for action in the developed world.

It was wonderful spending time in the most awe-inspiring landscapes in the world and among a very unique people with a strongly spiritual culture. At the same, it reminded us who we are and our importance in terms of what is happening throughout the world.

Bhaktapur

2011-12-31T06:50:00.000-08:00

On our return, they had left us an extra day in Kathmandu in case the flight from Lukla had been delayed. We mostly spent the time shopping and eating a great deal. Some of us toured the medieval city of Bhaktapur outside of Kathmandu. It has its own central Durbar Square area. We were approached by several men wanting to be our guide, and we hired the lowest bidder. Again, the sites were mostly Hindu in nature. We could not enter the temples and there were guards to make sure that non-Hindus did not go in. We walked beyond the square into the old narrow streets of the residential and commercial areas. We walked by the pottery square where there workshops producing clay pots. Because of the different historic and religious sites in the Kathmandu Valley, it is a World Heritage site.

Finishing the Trek

2011-12-30T17:30:00.000-08:00

December turned out to be a good time to trek in the Khumba region. The trails and villages were not crowded with Trekkers and the weather was very clear. We had no precipitation whatsoever. We mostly spent our breakfasts, lunches, tea times and dinners in tea rooms, which became our place to refresh ourselves, play cards, write in our journals, read, and socialize. Gio, a physical therapist from Sitka, Alaska was the star of our group who lead various activities in the tea rooms and danced for everyone. We had a very good group of trekkers. Everyone maintained good, positive spirits, and all were eager to help each other. From Namche we hiked back down steeply to the Dudh Koshi River and to Phakding to spend another night. Sitting in the tea room in Phakding, we watched Thupten outside conducting an intense discussion with a group of monks over a piece of religious art rolled out on a picnic table. He told us that he was advising them on the symbolic accuracy of the painting. He was obviously known to be an expert on that subject.

On our second night in Namche on the initial ascent, a stray dog, of the kind that tends to follow Trekkers, slept outside our tent. On our final night in Phakding, a stray snuck under the tent flap and slept in the tent vestibule. From Phakding, we had to climb almost 2,000 feet back to Lukla. It was a beautiful day, and I enjoyed pushing myself to make the climb as fast as I could. I was not nearly the fastest in the group, but I enjoyed the climb. After lunch in Lukla, the group went into the village and enjoyed espresso drinks or Everest beer. During the trek, we were warned about dairy products and alcohol was discouraged at altitude, but now, finished with hiking, we felt free to indulge ourselves. There was a big celebration in the evening with a special dinner. The Nepali crew played a drum and sang Sherpa songs and had us all dancing Sherpa style. Gio led the crew in dancing to more contemporary Bollywood and western music. We all appreciated the special care that the Nepali crew had provided. We spent the night in the nice lodge and in the morning got on the plane to fly back to Kathmandu. The plane took off downhill on the slanted runway, and we watched the snowy peaks recede as we flew over the foothills to the city.

Tengboche

2011-12-29T16:09:00.000-08:00

The next day, on a very cold morning, we climbed steeply to Tengboche. Tengboche is an active monastery where Thupten served. It is on a high forested ridge. The entryway gate and building are covered with intricate pictures of Bodhisattvas and other divine beings. The art in the meditation room included intricate panels describing various stories. There were prayer drums and banners and meditation benches where the monks chanted the sutras. The benches were covered with special cushions, covers and blankets. This day, we were told, the monks were away participating in an event commemorating the death of a lama. After a donation, we lit the yak butter candles, made wishes and Thupten said a prayer. Outside there was an outstanding view of Everest and its sister peaks.

We next climbed down to the Dudh Kosi River and then climbed steeply out of its canyon to lunch at Kenjoma. By then, clouds began to come up the valley and a warm morning turned cold. After lunch, we ascended into the clouds and the scenery disappeared behind a gray wall. As we entered the outskirts of Namche, we saw a florescent male pheasant.

Labuche to Deboche

2011-12-28T16:27:00.000-08:00

We left Labuche on a bright and windy morning. I was feeling better. This would be our longest hiking day covering eleven miles. As we descended, our heads cleared and we started to feel like we had awoken from an extended dream. First, we said goodbye to Nuptse which had dominated the scenery in the Everest basin. At times, we saw sharp Lhotse with strong winds blowing snow off the top. Beyond it, we could snow covered Peak 38. Later, Cholatse, Taboche and Arakan Tse were dramatic to the west. We stopped for lunch at Pheriche and saw the shining conical monument inscribed with the names of all those lost on Everest. After lunch, we climbed steeply out of the deep, narrow canyon of the Lobuche Khola river. We crossed to Dingboche and again hiked along the Imja Khola river. As we descended along the river, we began to see Rhododendron along the opposite, eastern side of the river. We crossed the river and hiked towards Deboche through a mixed forest of rhododendron, fir, cedar and deciduous trees. Deboche is below the ridge where the Tengboche Monastery is located. From our campsite, we could again see Everest and its sister peaks in the distance.

Kala Patar

2011-12-27T17:36:00.000-08:00

The next morning, we climbed steeply to Kala Patar from Gorek Shek. Because of the altitude and because I was not feeling well, this was the most difficult hike I have ever done. I had to climb at a ridiculously slow pace. Finally, I reached the top which consisted of a knoll of boulders at an elevation of 18,192 feet, on the west side of the Everest Basin, covered with prayer flags. From there, there were mountains in all directions. Most spectacularly, among its sister mountains, we could see the south face of Everest in all its glory, under deep, deep blue skies. On top, I thanked Badri, our Sirdar for getting me to the high point of the trek. The Sirdar is the second in command who is charged with looking after the logistics and clients. Badri told me, “People get to the top with this,” he pointed to his head, “and this,” pointing to his heart. After celebrating on the top, we hiked down quickly and steeply back to Gorek Shek. After lunch, we hiked back to Labuche, a mostly level trail, and spent the night there in the lodge. By this point, most of the trekkers had some combination of colds, stomach distress, or mild symptoms of altitude sickness. Everyone looked forward to the 2,600 foot descent scheduled for the next day.

Everest Base Camp

2011-12-26T14:17:00.001-08:00

The next morning we hiked to Gorek Shek, the last small village of lodges before Everest Base Camp with an elevation of 16,860 feet. We had lunch at Gorek Shek, but I was unable to eat much because of continuing nausea. After lunch, we began our hike to Everest Base Camp which took two hours. The skies were crystal blue and the scenery was awe inspiring. I hiked slowly near the rear of the group. Base Camp is at the bottom of a large glacial basin at an elevation of 17,600 feet, where the Khumba Glacier collects ice from a number of tributary glaciers that descend from above between the high peaks. The basin is full of gravel, boulders and glacial till, and the hiking was rugged at times. Along the hike, we could occasionally see Everest peeking from behind the other mountains, but at base camp, Everest was hidden from view. The basin is surrounded by the high chiseled pyramids of Pumori, Chumbu, Khumbutse, and Lingtren. Nuptse was particularly dramatic, sharply carved by ice and dominating the scenery like a large triangular arrowhead covered with ice. In the distance, we could see dark-colored Nupten, which we were told was totally in Tibet. At times in the basin we were hiking on the gravel covered glacier with base camp next to the glacier. Climbing expeditions are typically in the spring, so there was no one camped at Base Camp, although there was another group of trekkers at the camp with us. The return hike was difficult and I moved slowly. On our return to our lodge in Gorek Shek, I collapsed into bed for the second evening. I was warm in bed that night , especially thanks to the hot water bottles they gave us, and slept well.

Dinboche to Labuche

2011-12-26T07:47:00.000-08:00

During my second night at Dingboche, I awoke with gastrointestinal distress. As was the normal practice for trekkers who were not well, the team sent me ahead early the next morning with my own Sherpa, a young man named Rinzi, who carried my pack. The weather was clear and cold when we started and I walked very slowly. It warmed as the sun rose. Early in the hike there was a steep climb which caused difficulties that Rinzi helped me through. At the top of the climb, there were cairns, boulders and prayer flags that served as monuments to numerous climbers who had died on Everest. There was a monument to Scott Fischer, the expedition leader who died in the incident described in the book, Into Thin Air. We hiked to the tiny village of Labuche at an altitude of 16,100 feet. In Labuche we stayed in a lodge instead of a tent. Despite the fact that they are not heated, the lodges kept us warmer through the frigid night above 16,000 feet. When I got to the lodge, I collapsed on the bed and slept through tea.

Dingboche

2011-12-25T19:24:00.000-08:00

At 4:00 am on our extra day in Dingboche, we awoke to hear people moving rapidly past our camp singing. Thupten told us that was the day the National Park allowed people to go below into the forest to cut downed wood. They had to have a permit and could only do it on that day. Later in the morning, we did a training climb to 15,300 feet to an old gompa or religious site. When we got there, the owner of the lodge where we camped was there burning juniper branches as a sacrament. From that spot, we could see up the river valley Lhotse, Lohtse Shar, Peak 38, Island Peak, Amphu Gyabjen, and the Ama Dablam glacier coming down from above. To the west were Cholatse, Raboche Peak, and Arakam Tse. To the south were Malangphulang and Kangtega. We had the afternoon off and I had time to take pictures of the sunset from a spot above the Imja Khola river.

Pangboche to Dingboche

2011-12-25T08:47:00.000-08:00

We had a quiet day hiking from Pangboche to Dingboche, high above the Imja Khola river. Ama Dablam continued to dominate the scenery together with Cholatse and Taboche. Further on, Pokalde and Nangkar Tshang were dramatic to our north. Over a final rise, we saw the village of Dingboche at an elevation of 14,300 feet and could see Nuptse and Lhotse, together with the snow covered Island Peak up the valley of the Imja Khola river. We were far above the forests and we now saw Yaks at the beasts of burden. We stayed two nights at Dingboche to further acclimatize.

Phortse to Pangboche

2011-12-24T09:05:00.000-08:00

On another bright and sunny day, we continued on the trail, high above the main Everest trail and far above the Imja Khola river and above the clouds in the valley below. We continued to a high point above 13,000 feet where Thamserku and Kantega towered above us across the valley. We could see back to the Tengboche Monastery which we would visit on the return trip. Coming around a bend, Ama Dablam presented itself to us along with Everest in the distance with its sister peaks. We continued on to our destination, the Village of Pangboche situated above 13,000 feet. We went into the Pangboche Monastery which is a rectangular building surrounding a courtyard with older and newer construction. Thupten explained that unlike Tengboche, Pangboche is a Monastery for householders, devotees who maintain lives and families outside of the monastery. We gave the elderly monk a fifty rupee donation and were allowed to light Yak butter candles. Someone asked Tupten if we should light the candles for someone. He said the candle would send out light for all people but we could make a wish.

Namche to Phortse

2011-12-23T17:16:00.000-08:00

The weather was clear the morning we left Namche. We started on the main trail to Everest Base Camp but turned off of it onto a trail that ascended the Dudh Koshi river valley toward Dole. While on the main trail, we passed runners in the annual Everest Marathon which runs from Everest Base Camp back to Namche. The winner of the marathon was a 31 year old Nepali man and in fact the top twenty finishers were Nepali. It is known as the highest altitude marathon in the world. We climbed steeply on the trail towards Dole and had lunch at the high point of the day at the Mong pass. Towering Ama Dablam dominated the scenery to the east, and Thamserku and Kangtega towered over us to the south. From Mong La, leaving the Dole trail, we descended steeply to the river and up the river caught a glimpse of Cho Oyu, one of the taller mountains. Then, we hiked steeply up through the Rhododendron forest to our next camp in the village of Phortse. In the evening, I went up to a flat spot above the camp to take pictures of Thamserku and Kangtega in the setting sun. There were grazing yaks beyond the stone walls that defined paths and fields in the village. I noticed that the wall in front of me was composed of flat stones carved with Tibetan scriptures, mantras and portraits of Buddhas.

Everest View Hotel

2011-12-22T17:14:00.000-08:00

We stayed at Namche two nights at an elevation over 11,000 feet to acclimatize. The first full day we were there we did a wonderful hike from Namche to the Evervest View Hotel and back, which started with a highly aerobic climb up many steps. As we climbed out of the Namche basin, it was overcast with a low ceiling of clouds that hid the mountains. As we continued, we saw blue sky above and the mountains began to appear around us. First was Kumbila, the Sherpa sacred mountain, that is not to be climbed. In ancient times, it was said to be home to the fierce mountain god of the region who was subdued by the Buddhist saint Rimpoche. Next, we saw Kongde and then the beautiful high tower of Ama Dablam. Back to the east were Thamserku and Kangtegu. As we hiked, we saw eagles soaring below us, and at one point, I saw ravens chasing an eagle in front of other-worldly backdrop of mountains and low clouds. Our Sherpa guide pointed out bushy brown Tahr mountain goats grazing above us. There were several large males and a number of females and at times they poised, silhouetted against the sky. We saw a Nepalese pheasant, the national bird, with its iridescent colors. It was completely clear when we got to the balcony of the Everest View Hotel, with its clear view of Ama Dablam and beyond of Everest and her sisters Nuptse and Lhotse. The Hotel was a beautiful, low building constructed by the Japanese with multiple layers to fit the landscape and placed within a lovely stand of evergreens. From the hotel, we could see the village of Pangboche where we would go after Namche. We could also see the monastery of Tengboche which would be on our return route. On the balcony we had tea and took pictures with an entertaining group of Australian trekkers.

Thupten had been a monk at Tengboche starting at age nine before he left the monastery to lead treks. Back in Namche, before lunch he spoke about Tibetan Buddhism and with great concern about the situation in Tibet. After lunch, he took us to his house and showed us his prayer room filled with art and religious artifacts. He is obviously still a devout Buddhist and he showed us religious books, telling us he had to chant 60 of them this year. Thupten learned to paint religious painting in the monastery and he showed us his beautiful paintings. Thupten told us, “A Lama can teach you, but you have to create your own religion yourself.”

Phakding to Namche

2011-12-21T15:31:00.000-08:00

After turning the prayer wheel three times for good luck, we left Pakding heading for Namche. We traveled up the river through lush, mixed deciduous and evergreen forests. The lodge buildings along the way were constructed of stone or brick with finely finished wooden windows and trim. Early in the morning our luggage would pass us on the backs of dzo or what our sherpas called dokyos. These are hybrid animals resulting from the mating of cattle with yaks. Apparently, they are used at the lower altitudes because yaks do not do well below certain altitudes, and suffer heat exhaustion if it gets too warm. As we climbed, we passed caravans of dokyos carrying various goods. We had to stay on the inner side of the trail as they passed so they would not push us over the edge. Several times we crossed the river on the metal suspension bridges that are attached by cables across the river. Crossing on the bridges can be exciting because they shake and sway as you cross them and you can see through the metal floor-slats to the river below. As we hiked, we saw a number of snow-capped peaks high above us including Taboche, Kusum Kangaru, Shishapangma, Takargo, and others. After lunch, as we started to climb out of the river canyon, we crossed a suspension bridge that was particularly high above the river. We climbed steeply through the forest, which had become predominantly evergreen. At a stopping point, we caught our first glimpse of Everest through the trees flanked by her sister mountains Nuptse and Lhotse.

Namche Bazaar is a village that is now the primary center serving trekkers in the Khumbu area. Our leader, Thupten, comes from Namche and has a house there and seems to know everyone. It was clear and warm when we got to Namche and Thamserku towered above, but after tea, the fog rolled down the valley, we could no longer see the mountain and the night was exquisitely cold.

Lukla to Phakding

2011-12-19T17:23:00.000-08:00

We began our trek with a flight in a propeller plane from Kathmandu to the short, slanted landing field in Lukla. After lunch, we began by hiking through the town with our first pyramidal peak, Nupla, above us. Hiking from the airfield, we left all motorized transportation behind us. From this point to the high mountain villages, everyone and everything was transported by foot or on the backs of animals. From Lukla we descended steeply down to the Dudh Koshi river. Dudh translates as milk, and the river was whitish from the silt coming down from the glaciers high above. We ate lunch in the small village of Thado Koshi and looked at the high, carved peak, Kusum Kanguru, above us. We ate soup with much garlic in it. The sherpas believed garlic would help preserve our health. Then we had a fairly typical lunch with bread, french fries, cooked vegetables, cucumbers, the ever present dolbhat (rice and lentils) and a banana. The staff prepared our meals and attempted to use local produce whenever possible. After lunch, we continued up river and crossed the first of many metal suspension bridges to the lodge at Phakding. There is a monastery above Phakding and there were Buddhist Monks at the lodge. In the evening, we heard drums and the deep, base sounds of the Tibetan horns playing from the second story of the lodge. On the trail, we regularly walked around (clockwise only) small stupas, stones carved with Om Mani Padme Hum, and prayer wheels.

Swayambhunath

2011-12-18T09:20:00.000-08:00

Later in the afternoon, we visited the Buddhist stupa of Swayambhunath, otherwise known as the monkey temple. The site is located on top of a high hill, within a large wooded park, with views over the city. It is a popular destination for families from the city on their one day off from work. The round stupa on the top is designed to represent a lotus flower with a golden tower with all-seeing eyes. The primary attraction of the site is the free ranging troop of macaque monkeys. These monkeys are much beloved and treasured by the people of Kathmandu. There are also free-ranging dogs who also seem to have a special status.

Patan

2011-12-18T07:38:00.000-08:00

Next we visited the Patan Durber Square. In the Kathmandu Valley, there are three Durber Squares, each of which is a central urban space combining historic royal palaces and religious structures. Patan, a smaller city adjoining Kathmandu, was home to the Malla kings who ruled between the 12th and the 17th centuries. Although the Malla kings supported both Buddhism and Hinduism, the Patan Durber square has a distinctly Hindu character that is darker and more foreboding than the Buddhist sites. Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the Hindu temples. After the Durber Square, we visited the Tibetan Refugee Camp and toured the facility where the Tibetans weave rugs and other textile products.

Boudhanath

2011-12-17T14:30:00.000-08:00

On our first full day in Kathmandu, we went on a guided tour of several locations. The first site we visited in Kathmandu, and my favorite site in that city, was the large Boudhanath Buddhist stupa which is also known as Boudha. The stupa is designed as a mandala and is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. Its origins are unsure. The primary activity at the site is for pilgrims to walk clockwise around the structure, turning numerous prayer wheels that send the mantra Om Mani Padme Hum out into the universe. Many of the pilgrims at the site were Tibetans. The spiritual serenity of the site is palatable even when surrounded by urban chaos and tourist shops. Music is broadcast that chants the mantra, contributing to both the sacred feel and the carnival atmosphere. The large, white stucco structure with its flashing golden tower amd all seeing eyes shines in the sun. Ancient Tibetan woman make offerings and monks are present. There is a small temple adjacent with monks chanting in a dark interior with glowing colors and a golden Buddha statue. We went to the adjoining Tibetan Thanka school that trains people to produce religious art. We saw the art being made and got a bit of a “Sunday School” lesson on Tibetan Buddhism. The Boudhanath is one of the world’s great spiritual sites and is open to all.

Kathmandu

2011-12-17T13:22:00.001-08:00

Any trip to the Himalaya in Nepal starts in Kathmandu. The greater Kathmandu area likely has a population of over one million, and rapid growth has resulted at least partially from people moving into the area from other parts of the country. One of the results of rapid growth has been increasing pollution of all types and most especially increasing air pollution largely associated with the growing number of motor vehicles. Our spare time in Kathmandu was spent walking the narrow streets with their chaotic mix of pedestrians, bicycles, rickshaws, motorbikes, cars, and trucks. There are few sidewalks, so pedestrians spend their time dodging other forms of transportation. Scattered throughout the city and especially in the Durbar Square area, there are a number of historic and religious sites. The older Hindu sites are known for their intricate wood carvings.

Torreys Peak

2011-10-23T12:35:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, continuing to train for Nepal, I climbed to the summit of 14,270 foot, Torreys Peak with Buddy and Moe. It was Moe's first 14er and Buddy's second. There was snow and ice on the trail and the gail force winds were blowing up high, making it very cold. I forgot to bring a camera so I took pictures with my iPhone. In the very cold wind on the summit, we only stayed briefly and I had trouble taking pictures. Although a few people were climbing neighboring Grays Peak, we were the only ones climbing Torreys. We were alone on the summit.

Meridian Trail

2011-10-02T19:07:00.001-07:00

Today I lead a CMC photography hike to the Mount Evans area. The fall colors were at their peak.

Windy Peak

2011-09-24T20:05:00.000-07:00

Today I climbed Windy Peak in the Lost Creek Wilderness Area with a club group. It was a steep bushwack through bright yellow stands of Aspen and over rugged terrain. The top was a large open area with thousands of granite boulders of varying and random shapes and orientations. The extensive views were of wilderness, peaks, and the plains.

Sky Pond

2011-09-12T06:16:00.000-07:00

On Sunday, Thom Curtis led us on a hike to Sky Pond in the Rocky Mountain National Park. We climbed past several falls and two other lakes before reaching Sky Pond below the sharks tooth ridge. At one point, we had to scramble steeply next to the tallest falls. There were elk scattered throughout.

Flowered Meadows

2011-09-05T15:09:00.000-07:00

Joni and I hiked up into the Flat Tops wilderness area through forest and flowered meadows. We got caught in a storm on the way, but after that, we had crystalline blues skies for the rest of our trip.

Marvine Lakes

2011-09-05T14:52:00.000-07:00

The Marvine Lakes are large, laid end to end, in the valley below high, layered cliffs. We camped at the upper end.

Twin Lakes

2011-09-05T14:42:00.000-07:00

The second day, we climbed gradually, past a lovely waterfall, to the top of the plateau. We hiked over the wide open, rolling country, above ten thousand feet in elevation, to the Twin Lakes which were invisible until we were upon them. We camped on a ridge above the lake in a small stand of trees. The Twin Lakes were set like jewels under the deep blue sky, where we could see for miles in all directions over the water which changed color with the evening light.

The Flat Tops Plateau

2011-09-05T14:21:00.000-07:00

The final day, we hiked across the open plains, with odd shaped, layered peaks scattered in each direction. The trail was easy to follow, with regularly spaced poles to follow. Just before our descent off the plateau, we found another beautiful pond.

Sunset and Sunrise

2011-09-05T14:03:00.001-07:00

At Twin Lakes we enjoyed photographing the sunset and the sunrise.

Resthouse Meadows

2011-08-28T07:49:00.000-07:00

Buddy, Moe and I hiked up through the forest on the Resthouse Meadows Trail in the Mount Evans Wilderness, not far from Denver. The high point was a meadows area created by a forest fire in the early sixties. From the Meadows there are sweeping views of the wilderness area. Lincoln Lake is close to the meadows, just below the Mount Evans Road.

Palmer Mesa

2011-08-15T19:21:00.000-07:00

After camping at the Wheeler Geologic Area, I climbed back to Halfmoon Pass and then up a short ascent onto the Palmer Mesa. For miles, I hiked over flat to slightly rolling alpine tundra on the top of the wilderness area at an elevation above 12,000 feet. It was an endless flat landscape of short grass with views of distant mountains in all directions. The trail was not clear on the ground, and instead, I followed a series of weathered wooden poles. When I found one pole, I had to scan the horizon for another, one-half a mile or more in the distance.

Wheeler Geologic Area

2011-08-15T18:48:00.001-07:00

From Halfmoon Pass I hiked down to the Wheeler Geologic Area. The Wheeler Geologic Area is a highly eroded rock formation composed of layers of compacted volcanic ash that resulted from the eruptions of the La Garita Caldera approximately 25 million years ago. The caldera erupted with one of the largest known explosions in the history of the earth. The eruption is thought to have covered a significant portion of Colorado with ash. The caldera constitutes the extinct remains of a super volcano. The outcropping at the Wheeler Geologic Area is eroded into a festival of fantasy shapes.

On to Halfmoon Pass

2011-08-14T14:48:00.000-07:00

Next I hiked above treeline to the pass.

Lake Machin

2011-08-14T14:35:00.000-07:00

Early in the morning, I climbed the high ridge towards the Lake. On the top I decided that I didn’t need to get to the lake, seeing it was enough.

Sunset

2011-08-14T14:23:00.001-07:00

I camped on a knoll below La Garita Peak with views of the Twin Peaks and enjoyed the sunset.

La Garita Wilderness

2011-08-14T13:57:00.000-07:00

On a three day backpack in the La Garita Wilderness, I found broad stream valleys, high peaks, flat top mesas, an ancient volcanic caldera, a deep canyon and trails above the tree line with views extending endlessly. The Twin Peaks, mountains with a crest of craggy rock, were the landmarks I would hike around for three days.

Old Man of the Mountain

2011-08-04T20:00:00.000-07:00

The alpine sunflower, called Old Man of the Mountain and found high in the mountains, is said to face east all day. Research over the past few years indicates that this flower grows for twelve to fifteen years without flowering. Once it does flower, it dies. It is one of my favorite wildflowers. Field Crescent Butterflies seem to like them too.

Powderhorn Lakes

2011-08-04T19:39:00.000-07:00

When I got out of my tent early Saturday morning, there was a female moose next to our camp. The lake was surrounded by flowers of all types.

Devils Lake

2011-08-04T19:23:00.000-07:00

On Friday, we came to Devils Lake which is particularly beautiful and unusual among alpine lakes because of its softer surroundings on the high plateau.

Powderhorn Wilderness

2011-08-03T18:52:00.000-07:00

The Powderhorn Wilderness is an area known for its exceptionally large areas of alpine tundra, located on expansive plateaus above 12,000 feet in elevation. Last weekend, four of us spent four days on a hiking loop through this wilderness. The trails on the map were practically non-existent, so we had to find our way using map, compass and GPS. During the four days, we saw no one else in the wilderness.

California Hills and Valleys

2011-07-22T18:18:00.000-07:00

On Saturday we drove from lovely Lakeport on Route 175 over another more open coastal range. On Sunday evening I hiked in the hills above the bay area, and camped above Lake Chabot in a grove of tall Eucalyptus trees.

Robert Louis Stevenson State Park

2011-07-20T19:25:00.000-07:00

We spent the night in the charming small town of Calistoga. Early in morning while my mother slept, I went for a hike to Table Rock. As I drove up the mountain, I entered fog, and it remained foggy to the trailhead. I hiked through the dense, wet vegetation unique to the coastal mountains. As I climbed, the fog began to thin and I was soon in bright sunshine and there was not a cloud in the sky above me. At the highpoint overlook, I looked down upon an incredible sea of clouds with islands of mountain tops. I hiked down, back into the clouds to table rocks which is a cliff formation hanging from the mountains. The trail down was rocky and greatly eroded. Eerie rock formations loomed in the fog. I could not see anything of the incredible views and landscape that likely are present at Table Rock.

Sonoma California

2011-07-20T18:48:00.000-07:00

I went to see my mother in California and took her for a short trip to Sonoma, Napa Valley and the coastal mountain ranges to the north. In Sonoma, we ate lunch in the lush, historic town square and afterwards, we toured the old Mission San Francisco Solano and Mexican garrison barracks.

Quandary Peak

2011-07-13T17:28:00.000-07:00

On Saturday, I climbed 14,265 foot Quandary Peak with a club group. On the way up there were two young mountain goats on the trail, and a larger group off in the distance. It was overcast with broken clouds when we started so we had to watch the weather for possible storms. Later it alternated between sunshine and clouds. It was a straightforward climb, and the only snow was a small snow field near the top.

Middle Baldy

2011-07-13T17:08:00.000-07:00

We returned to the trail and hiked west to another high point on the Continental Divide called Middle Baldy which had views to the west, north and south. We remained there for a long lunch break before returning to camp. The final day we hiked east on the Continental Divide Trail, which in this location is also the Colorado Trail, through forests to our steep return on the Long Branch Trail.

Long Branch Baldy

2011-07-12T19:41:00.000-07:00

Above Baldy Lake, we could see a high ridge which culminated in a peak called Long Branch Baldy. The next morning we climbed a short distance from the lake to the Continental Divide. We hiked a short distance on the Continental Divide Trail to a point where we left the trail and bushwhacked towards Long Branch Baldy. At one point we found a great view down to Baldy Lake and our campsite far below. The top of the peak gave us endless views in all directions. The views were slightly lessened by haze which likely was caused by the fires in areas far to the south.

Baldy Lake

2011-07-10T08:28:00.000-07:00

Before we reached the Continental Divide we arrived at Baldy Lake, which would be our home for two nights. We were a large group and we took up a large portion of the campsites around the lake. We cooked and socialized around a main campfire area. Actually, there were two adjoining lakes. In all, they were beautiful with mirrored reflections which moved with the colors of the changing sky.

Cochetopa Hills

2011-07-08T17:52:00.000-07:00

Last Friday we started a backpack into the Cochetopa Hills Roadless Area. We started at a trailhead west of the Village of Sargents and hiked through a low valley full of Lupine and other flowers. As we started to climb, the temperature rose. After a hot climb, we reached a saddle with views of the Collegiates and other mountain ranges. After lunch on the saddle we climbed steeply up a wooded ridge towards the Continental Divide.

Hunt Lake

2011-07-07T18:38:00.000-07:00

Last Friday, on the way to our Cochetopa Hills backpack, we stopped on the east side of Monarch Pass for a hike to Hunt Lake. We hiked several miles up a timber road to where it intersected with the Continental Divide Trail. We climbed steeply up the CDT to Boss Reservoir which was set beautifully among various peaks. At the reservoir, we met a couple hiking down from above who were from Missouri and who told us it was too snowy to get to Hunt Lake. We decided to continue hiking up as far as we could until the snow stopped us. After a mile or so we began running into snow drifts but were able to navigate around them to the lake which was also in a beautiful setting. Being from Colorado, we knew how to deal with snow.

Mount Galbraith

2011-06-19T14:15:00.000-07:00

The first hike of the new photography section of the Colorado Mountain Club went to the foothills today to photograph spring wildflowers.

Golden Gate Canyon Wildflowers

2011-06-12T14:46:00.000-07:00

Last Sunday I led a long hike in Golden Gate Canyon State Park. Smoky haze from the Arizona wildfires obscured the views. However, we found exceptional wildflowers including wild iris and rare Calypso Orchid.

Hells Hole

2011-06-12T07:55:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I hiked with a group that climbed high out of the West Chicago Creek valley in the Hells Hole area of the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. From the Hells Hole trailhead we bushwhacked, climbing through the forest, to the top of Independence Mountain above 11,000 feet. We then hiked along the ridge, making our way through the rugged terrain and high-altitude forest, skirting snow drifts, for approximately two miles to a saddle below Sugarloaf Mountain. We then climbed steeply, ascending above tree line, to the 12,513 foot summit of the mountain. From the mountain and the ridge below, we had sweeping views of the mountains in the wilderness area and beyond. The twisted, ancient evergreens of the Krumholz forest on the ridge were quite interesting. At times clouds threatened and there was haze from the fires in Arizona, but storms never came. We took a long bushwhack back to the trailhead through the woods and the wet conditions from melting snow.

Peak X

2011-06-11T17:25:00.000-07:00

Two weeks ago, I climbed with a group high onto the Kenosha Ridge in the Lost Creek Wilderness to Peak X where there are expansive views of South Park and the surrounding peaks in all directions. It was bright and sunny, but the wind was very strong.

Southern Utah

2011-05-28T06:17:00.001-07:00

Peek a Boo Gulch and Spooky Gulch

2011-05-28T05:55:00.000-07:00

We hike down into Dry Fork Coyote Gulch and a short ways to the lower end of Peek a Boo Gulch. We had to climb a ten foot wall to enter the slot Canyon and then spent some time scrambling and squeezing through that very tight canyon. From the upper end of the slot canyon, we hiked high onto Early Weed Bench where there were sweeping views of the surrounding canyon country. We returned to the upper end of Peek a Boo canyon and hiked over to Spooky Gulch. Spooky Gulch is a very tight slot canyon and we had to take off our packs and squeeze sideways for some distance. At one point, we had to climb down ten feet through a hole in the rocks.

Angry Sky

2011-05-24T17:34:00.000-07:00

In the evening, as the setting sun illuminated the stone walls, the sky raged. There was no rain.

The Golden Cathedral

2011-05-22T17:08:00.000-07:00

We climbed steeply down from the Egypt trailhead, high on the canyon rim, hiking down the sandstone slope. We descended to Fence Canyon which was full of Cottonwood trees and vegetation and followed the canyon to the Escalante River. We followed the Escalante downstream and crossed the knee-deep, opaque, green river several times. We turned into Neon Canyon, with its high colorful, striped walls. At the end of Neon Canyon was the Golden Cathedral, a box canyon that ended in a steep, deep-red wall that hung over a small pool and beach. The wall had two large openings that provided skylights and allowed climbers to descend from above. The setting provided a meditative and spiritual place. I lay on my back on a large, flat boulder and looked at the striped walls and blue sky.

Fiery Sunset

2011-05-21T17:13:00.002-07:00

Forty Mile Gulch

2011-05-21T16:56:00.000-07:00

We hiked directly from our camp into Forty Mile Gulch. Soon we were hiking in a narrow canyon where we had to wade in water to continue. We bathed in a pool below a small waterfall. At times, we had to wade in water that was up to our chests. We passed the monumental Broken Bow Arch. On the way out of the canyon loop, we found ourselves in a dead-end box canyon and climbed steeply out to find that we were on the wrong side. We had to descend again in to the canyon and find the main trail up the other side. After a long walk to camp on a road, there was a fiery sunset.

Magic in the Desert

2011-05-19T19:29:00.000-07:00

We camped among the Sooner Rocks, a collection of red sandstone domes. I found a campsite on a rock ledge above the rest of the camp where there were fine views. The first evening there were clouds and rainbows. In the morning, there were no clouds in the sky, and before breakfast, I explored the domes, climbing as high as I could without undue risk.

Southern Utah

2011-05-17T18:37:00.001-07:00

On a club trip to the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, we drove south and west on Routes 24 and 12, surely one of the most scenic drives in the world. The drive started through a kaleidoscope of colorful canyons and ridges and then entered lovely Capitol Reef National Park where we stopped to see ancient petro glyphs. We drove high over Boulder Mountain where there was snow, and we stopped for the views to the large desert formations below. We then drove down into the Escalante over a dramatic stretch of road where there are precipitous drops on either side to the hard stone canyons below. We turned on to the Hole in the Rock Road and into the vastly empty desert. We had planned to hike late in the afternoon but were unable to because of time and the unstable weather. Some of us waited at the Dry Fork Coyote trailhead while we decided what to do.

Boston Gardens

2011-04-22T17:38:00.000-07:00

I spent some time in the Boston Gardens, in the Boston Commons area, before heading back through Back Bay.

Beacon Hill

2011-04-22T17:21:00.000-07:00

I next walked through the neighborhood of Federal style architecture that was started in the 1790’s.

The Charles River

2011-04-21T15:54:00.000-07:00

I next walked along the linear park on the Charles River. There were many people out enjoying the fine weather. Across the river, one could see the buildings of MIT in Cambridge and boats out for sailing lessons.

Back Bay

2011-04-20T17:43:00.000-07:00

On the last evening of the conference, I had time to walk through the city. I started with the nineteenth century Back Bay neighborhood, near the conference center, with its Victorian brownstones. The previous walk had been cool and grey. This day was warm and the flowering trees had begun to blosson.

Boston

2011-04-20T16:48:00.000-07:00

The second day of the conference I went on planning tours of the city. The first tour was a general tour of Boston and Cambridge and we stopped at Harvard and the School of Design. The second tour was of interesting redevelopment areas in South Boston. In the evening, I walk through the Back Bay neighborhood, to the Boston Commons and on to Chinatown. In Chinatown, I attended an interesting dinner where American planners were mixed with Chinese planners and planning students.

New England Sea Ports

2011-04-18T16:32:00.000-07:00

This month, I attended the national conference of the American Planning Association in Boston. On the day before the conference, Tom and Joan took me on a tour of several seaport towns, including Gloucester, Newbury Port, and Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The combination of history and commercial liveliness, even in the off-season, was wonderful. The residents have preserved their architecture and enhanced their downtowns in a very successful manner.

Lunch Rock

2011-03-22T18:40:00.000-07:00

Saturday, Ryan Ross took us up to a high point on the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park. There were spring conditions with stiff snow, and it was a difficult hike. Lunch rock was a name someone had given to the spot on a previous hike. The views were spectacular.

Mayflower Gulch

2011-03-12T16:12:00.000-08:00

I went on a ski tour led by Mark Porter high into a basin in the Tenmile Range. This is certainly one of the best places to tour with wonderful vistas. Late in the season but before spring snowfall, the snow was somewhat old and wind packed, but we were able to ski down some rolling slopes. It was a lovely, sunny day and not too cold.

Coney Flats

2011-02-19T15:20:00.000-08:00

I skied with a group up to Coney Flats which is a large meadow below Buchanan Pass and some of the Indian Peaks. It was a warm day, up in to the forty degree range, and as it warmed, the snow got sticky and difficult. Nevertheless, it is a nice ski and a beautiful place.

Vail Pass

2011-02-13T11:59:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I went on a club trip skiing up Wilder Gulch, high up on Vail Pass. There were too many snowmobiles but it was a warm, sunny day and very beautiful.

Snowy Sunday

2011-02-06T12:15:00.000-08:00

I've been working more and enjoying it less. So on a snowy Sunday after my second six day work week, I was too weary to drive to the hills, so I skied in the neighbornood. I made my own path straight through the new snow in Veterans Park, the South High School grounds, and Wash Park and then stopped at a nice coffee shop for a break before heading home. It was nice.

Grizzly Gulch

2011-01-15T18:19:00.000-08:00

Today I went on a ski trip up into Grizzly Gulch, which is a high alpine basin below Torreys Peak. There were some nice downhill runs.

Polar Express

2011-01-02T09:27:00.000-08:00

Our annual short period of truly cold weather was late but finally arrived a couple of days ago. Yesterday, I was scheduled to go on a Nordic ski tour led by Dave Callais outside of the Town of Frasier which occasionally has the coldest reported temperatures in the lower forty-eight states. After some discussion, we decided to go ahead to the Frasier Experimental Forest area. When we arrived at the trailhead, the outside thermometer in the car read -11 degrees. We all put on multiple layers from head to toe with hand and foot warmers and proceeded on what has a very enjoyable tour. The sun was out at times, the snow was very nice, and the scenery beautiful. Everyone was experienced and managed the cold well. When we arrived back at the cars, close to 3:00 PM, the temperature was above zero.

Mount Stanley

2010-11-27T16:43:00.000-08:00

I went on a club snowshoe today to Mount Stanley. We could not find our way along the Continental Divide Trail to the mountain because of the deep snow but made our way to a beautiful basin across from Stanley. It was a beautiful warm day in deep powder among the evergreens.

Snow

2010-11-21T15:02:00.000-08:00

I went for a little club snowshoe yesterday in the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. It was my first snow excursion of the season.

East Bay Hills

2010-11-02T18:28:00.000-07:00

I visited my Mom in California. I had time for a few short hikes in the East Bay Hills. There is the Redwood Regional Park with some large Redwood Trees. Anthony Chabot Park has a lake. The Huckleberry Botanic Preserve has a rare community of native plants, and the Sibley Volcanic Preserve has igneous geology and far-reaching views.

Kettle Tarn

2010-10-17T13:20:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, I went on a club hike through an area of the Comanche Peak Wilderness and a short distance into the Rocky Mountain National Park to a small pond called Kettle Tarn. It was a gorgeous day.

Newcombe Park

2010-10-10T15:32:00.000-07:00

On the way home from a stimulating planning conference in Steamboat Springs, I drove over Buffalo Peak Pass to the east side of the Mount Zirkel Wilderness Area. I started the drive before sunrise and by the time I got to the pass, I was in the clouds and it was snowing heavily and there was snow on the road. I drove back down below the clouds and snow on the east side and saw a large bull moose crossing the road. I drove to the the Newcombe Trailhead to hike up into the wilderness. The trail entered the large flat meadows of Newcombe Park which were surrounded by stands of Aspen that were beyond their peak autumn color but still beautiful. Almost immediately, it began to flurry. As I climbed above the meadows toward the continental divide, the snow became heavier. High up, a couple of inches had accumulated on the trail, and because of the snow, I missed the turn off to Round Lake, my destination. When I reached a small pond immediately next to the trail, I knew I had climbed too high. I hiked back down and found the side trail to the lake. When I got to the lake, it was snowing heavily. With the snow and overcast skies, it was a difficult day for pictures.

Taos

2010-09-25T17:46:00.000-07:00

After our backpack we got back to Taos in the evening and spent the night in Taos. In the morning, before returning to Denver, we ate breakfast and visited a gallery in the eccentric village of Arroyo Seco, rode the chairlift at the Taos Ski Resort to look at the fall colors and visited the San Francisco de Asis Church. The church was constructed beginning around 1772 and was completed in 1815 by Franciscan Fathers.

Pecos Wilderness Area

2010-09-25T17:19:00.000-07:00

On a Ryan Ross trip to the Pecos Wilderness in New Mexico, we spent the first night at a beautiful campground on a canyon-rim point, above the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Red River. It was a beautiful clear night among the ancient pinon pine trees and junipers. The next day we took a shuttle from Taos into the mountains to our starting point for a three day backpack into the wilderness. We immediately lost our way and had to take on a way-finding bushwhack to find the trail. This put us behind schedule and we had to camp in a less than ideal location in an alluvial forest at the bottom of the canyon of Quemado Creek. The next day we climbed out of the canyon to the beautiful, large Quemado Falls and then into the alpine basin above. We found that the pass we needed to reach was at the top of a 500 foot wall with a crude, steep trail of switchbacks over loose rocks and gravel. From the top, we could see our destination, the Truchas Lakes below, but the descent was also steep and over loose scree. Our camp at the lakes was lovely with views of the lakes, the peaks above, and the vast landscape to the east. The lakes became colorful mirrors in the evening light.

The third day we climbed back over the ridge on a much more gentle trail and to our second pass which consisted of a wide alpine meadow. That day we hiked thirteen miles back to trailhead down the Rio Medio creek. This hike actually included some up and down sections with climbs to points high above the creek. We were at a much lower elevation for much of the hike, in Ponderosa Pine forests, and the hike was hot. At the end, we had to gain 500 feet of elevation climbing out of the canyon.

Uncompahgre Peak

2010-09-07T16:21:00.000-07:00

This past weekend three of us went with Ryan Ross to Lake City to climb Uncompahgre Peak. We camped on beautiful Lake San Christobal the night before and left early in the morning to climb the Peak. Uncompahgre is the sixth highest peak in Colorado with an elevation of 14,309 feet. Most of the hike is above tree line across sweeping alpine meadows. The peak itself, with its unusual shape, stands prominently above the landscape. The climb was steady and straightforward with one short scramble near the top, over loose rocks and gravel. The weather was sunny with some clouds and gusty wind. From the top, the views were of sharp peaks, colorful basins and endless mountains.

Exploring the Huerfano Ridge Tops

2010-08-26T19:44:00.000-07:00

On the second day, I climbed the Huerfano Trail which switchbacked steeply up the eastern wall of the valley. On top was a forested plateau with a level trail. I planned to find a loop hike with several different trails, but could not find the first intersection. I went off trail a bit and found a beautiful valley. I went back down to the trailhead and car camped below. The final day I climbed up onto the western ridge which was higher and above tree line. From the high, tundra on top of the ridge I could see for great distances in all directions. There were tall peaks at the top of the basin, including three over 14,000 feet to the south. To the north, I looked down on the dunes of the Great Sand Dunes National Park and to the high peaks beyond. When I approached the first peak at 13,000 feet, there were mountain sheep on top. I reached a point at 13,500 feet and turned back. I returned slowly, enjoying the beautiful distances. Different varieties of gentian flowers were scattered across the alpine tundra and the sides of the ridge.

Lily Lake

2010-08-24T19:21:00.000-07:00

When I first arrived at the Huerfano Basin, at the southern end of the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness Area, it was overcast. I backpacked steeply to Lily Lake and camped above 12,000 feet in the tree line forest below the Lake. To get to the Lake from camp, I had to climb the trail up a steep wall. It was very windy and the lake surface was dark and choppy. The descending evening light was beautiful on the high, stark mountains across the basin. It was growing colder, so I poured hot water in a bottle to take with me into my sleeping bag. It rained several times during the night but I was quite warm. The next morning was still windy but bright and sunny. As I hiked back down into the valley, I descended below the wind and it became warm.

Nakani and Nanita Lakes

2010-07-25T10:52:00.001-07:00

Early Sunday morning, before my final, seven-mile hike to the trailhead, I hiked up to the two lakes above the South Inlet valley.

Haynach Lakes

2010-07-25T10:36:00.000-07:00

On Friday, after a tough hike with my full pack, I lightened up and made a slow hike to the open country around the Haynach lakes above the Tonahutu Valley.

Elk

2010-07-25T10:15:00.000-07:00

Not long after reaching the ridge of the continental divide, I came across a large herd of elk. There were females, calves, and juvenile males. Although they watched me warily, they did not seem overly concerned by me, and I hiked through the herd.

Above Treeline

2010-07-25T09:24:00.001-07:00

On Saturday, I began the long challenging hike to climb out of the Tonahutu Valley onto the broad, open ridge of the continental divide above tree line. On the ridge, the junction of the Tonahutu Trail and the North Inlet Trail was just below Flat Top Mountain. I stashed my pack and made the short climb up to the mountain top which was full of day hikers from the east side. There were views out to the prairie and over the cliffs, steeply down to the lakes on the east side of the National Park. Back on the North Inlet Trail, the views across the flower-covered tundra went on forever in all directions.

Tonahutu and North Inlet Trails Hike

2010-07-25T09:07:00.000-07:00

I hiked the long loop on the western side of Rocky Mountain National Park. The weather was quite warm and mostly sunny. In the Big Meadows far down in the big valley of Tonahutu Creek, I had a couple of Moose sightings which could have been of the same juvenile male. The second half of the loop was down into the North Inlet Creek valley. There were falls along both creeks, which were beautiful, relatively large streams. The scenery was beautiful throughout.

Sacred Place

2010-07-11T15:25:00.000-07:00

Machu Picchu was clearly intended to be a sacred place. It was a stage, a set for conducting large, elaborate ceremonies like the Inti Raymi and for smaller private rituals in very special places, located throughout the estate. There is the so-called Temple of the Sun with its round wall, and like other temples, it contains a special boulder with a carved line that provides a unique shadow on June 21. Beneath the Temple of the Sun is a sacred cave with a white stone at its entrance carved into a step pattern. The step pattern was somehow sacred and is part of the famous Andean cross that had been used as a part of sacred art in Peru back to the earliest times. There is the pyramid, Intiwatana, carved from a natural knoll on the ridge top. On top of it, are stones carved into various shapes that are somehow linked from a visual standpoint to the surrounding sacred mountains. In fact, all the religious sites are linked to the surroundings and to each other in a sacred geometry that is unknown today.

Machu Picchu

2010-07-10T13:32:00.000-07:00

Machu Picchu is spectacular for its design and engineering, but also because of its wonderful location on a ridge, a saddle, between two mountains high above the canyon of the Urubamba River, with mountains surrounding it into the distance. It is thought that it was built for the great Inca and conqueror Pachacuti as one of his estates. Its layout is very highly organized into agricultural and urban sectors with its own agricultural terraces to provide food. The sectors included socially higher and lower portions as was the custom of the Quechua people. The site included an elaborate drainage system with fountains and irrigation taking advantage of springs. Some of this water is still running today. It is said that sixty percent of the construction is underground with the elaborate terracing and drainage systems. The royal estate is in fact carved out of the natural stone shape of the ridge. Our guide had us imagine the planning of Machu Picchu when the first Quechua envisioned what a heavily vegetated ridgetop could become. Part of the amazement of the place is that the Inca empire only lasted for about one-hundred years. So, this place was planned and constructed in just a very few years, a major effort for people who scraped, polished, moved, and fit together giant stones without steel, wheels or machines. The conquistadors managed to not come to Machu Picchu and did not dismantle it as they had other sites such as the great imperial city of Cusco. That is why it is in such wonderful condition today.

Inca Trail

2010-07-09T06:04:00.000-07:00

On Thursday morning, we started our day by hiking up the old Inca trail from Machu Picchu to the Sungate. The Sungate was the first checkpoint for ancient pilgrims traveling on the Inca Trail, before they entered Machu Picchu. For modern trekkers, it is the first place they see Machu Picchu on the Inca Trail. As on the day before, when we started, Machu Picchu was covered with clouds, which began to dissipate when we reached the top. We could also see back to the high mountains from which we had come. There was also a small Inca temple half way up the trail. Coming down the trail, we spotted a wild orchid. We also visited a nearby bridge, built by the Inca into the side of a cliff, as a second access point, which could be blocked by removing logs.